A house that looks inwards
A riad is a traditional medina house built around a courtyard. From the lane you see only a wall and a door. Everything happens inside: the courtyard, often planted and cooled by a pool, the galleries upstairs, the rooms that open onto the patio rather than the street, and the rooftop terrace. That architecture explains the calm you find there, a few minutes from the souks.
How it differs from a hotel
A riad has few rooms: six at Riad Aguaviva. There is no anonymous front desk and no corridor, but a team who know you by name, serve breakfast in the courtyard or on the terrace and help you plan your days. Each room has its own décor, size and character: you choose a room, not a category.
What to know before booking
The lanes of the medina are pedestrian: a taxi drops you nearby, leaving a few minutes on foot. The easiest option is to book an airport transfer, as the driver walks you to the door. As in most riads, upstairs rooms and the terrace are reached by stairs only. Courtyard pools are for cooling off rather than swimming lengths; ours is not heated, which is exactly what makes it a pleasure after a day of sightseeing.
Choosing the right neighbourhood
The medina is large and its quarters differ. Around Jemaa el-Fna the bustle never stops. In the north, around Sidi Bel Abbès where the riad stands, neighbourhood life keeps its own pace: the Ben Youssef Madrasa and the entrance to the souks are ten minutes away on foot, the square about twenty, and you sleep in the quiet.